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Pictures from Madeira







Pictures from Madeira

Pictures from Madeira 01/19/2004 01:56 PM

Madeira, Portugal

Two photo albums from a week in Madeira: Part 1 and Part 2. Pictures with "madle-" in the name were taken with the Leica, "madlo-" were taken with the Lomo and anything else was taken with the Elph. Since the Leica was new and I hadn't had any pictures developed with it yet, I am impressed with just how good the photos are as it has been a while since I've used a fully manual camera. The Lomo pictures are a bit freaky as expected though. A tip for photographers travelling to Madeira is to take plenty of film with you as all they appear to sell on the island is Fuji consumer grade film which made a difference in my pictures when compared to the Kodak and better Fuji colour film I had brought with me. A polarizing filter is essential for the landscapes during the daytime, too. I didn't have one for the Leica so there aren't many pictures of scenery.

Madeira is an island which lies approximately 660km west of Morocco in the Atlantic and is part of Portugal. The word Madeira itself means wooded since it was full of trees when it was discovered. Nowadays, however, it is covered with hotels and tourists. It also has the most moderate climate in the world with very little difference in temperature all year. The airport has one of the shortest runways used by commercial jets which was recently doubled in length by extending it on stilts to 2,781 metres. Jarkko wisely informed me of this fun factoid only after we landed.

Funchal is the main city on Madeira. I was disappointed that no tourist brochures proclaimed, "We put the FUN in FUNCHAL!", but I suppose that's too corny even for the usually silly tourist slogans that abound everywhere. We stayed in a hotel very near downtown which had a casino next to it that looked like the headquarters for Spectre. I suppose we should have gone inside the casino and had a look around but casinos usually only manage to fill me with the urge to run to the nearest exit with all the flashing lights and noise. This may be a side effect of all those years of late nights spent in dance clubs. It was a lovely hotel with a fine pool in the 70s concrete school of architecture. Madeira would be absolutely nowhere without concrete since the local volcanic basalt is too hard and difficult to quarry. The sidewalks are beautiful mosaics with white limestone and black basalt chips arranged in geometric patterns. These do tend to get a bit slippery in the rain though.

The first thing I noticed after we settled into the hotel was the sound of the birds; big, squawking tropical birds filling the air along with little birds singing before sunset. Stray dogs are everywhere as well, but they are obviously fed by the locals as they appear to be well fed and healthy doggies living the good life. I saw very few stray cats however. Exotic flowers such as the bird of paradise grow like weeds all around the city and plants that would normally be tiny, wan, and pitiful things on your windowsill are gargantuan in this sub-tropical paradise. Christmas lights were everywhere and on everything that could be made to hold lights. I don't know if Funchal has the most Christmas lights of any city in the world, but it certainly could be. It takes them several months to hang all the lights around the city in trees, on bridges, on light posts, on statues and everywhere else. Funchal is also one of the cleanest cities I've ever been in which may be due to litter bins placed along the streets every 20 metres or an army of people sweeping the streets late into the night. I didn't see so much as a cigarette butt on the streets of Funchal. The streets are filled with lots of older tourists from the UK and the Nordic countries which made us feel too young for Madeira but too old for Ibiza.

Madeira is a very hilly island which the travel books and brochures really don't emphasize enough. If you walk anywhere it is likely that you'll be walking uphill or downhill with some degree of difficulty. Funchal is mostly flat unless you want to walk north of the city to one of the botanical gardens which is a bit of a challenge. We walked to the Botanical Garden which took about an hour and was, in some places, about a 45% grade. The weather is cool enough to make this a pleasant ascent in spite of the exertion. The Botanical Garden suffers from not being terribly well maintained so the reward at the top of the hill isn't equal to the walk but it still had lovely views of the city below. The cable car trip to the Monte Palace Tropical Garden is far easier than walking up the mountain and the garden itself is spectacularly odd and beautiful. I would have spent another day there given the chance. Jarkko somehow convinced me that taking a toboggan ride down the hill was a good idea and it was strangely thrilling in spite of my terror of careening down a mountain on a contraption with no brakes and whizzing around cars. It's a fun thing to do...once. :)

Unless you are a UK tourist looking for excellent curry or chips and egg while on holiday, the food on Madeira is nothing short of sublime. The grilled swordfish I ordered one evening was nothing short of the best I've ever had. The local limpets fried and coated in garlic butter were fabulous as well. We were told to try the scabbard fish, Espada, with bananas as Madeira is the only place other than Thailand where you can taste this dish. The fish is delicious but it is best tried before you see the very ugly fish in the market. It is caught at a surprisingly deep 800m and dies and turns black from decompression on its way to the surface. Giant round gelatinous eyes and vicious teeth also don't do much for the appearance of the scabbard fish. I don't like bananas very much but the local variety is smaller, sweeter and fresher than the ones in the supermarket and I loved a desert of bananas and creme caramel a waiter surprised me with one evening. One restaurant we took a special liking to was Arsénios in the Zona Velha which featured Fado singers, a stray named Bimbo and a chef with flair who knew his way around the grill. Portuguese wines were a special feature. We tried a green wine that is made from green [ not ripe ] grapes which makes the wine a bit tart and it has a lower alcohol content. There were carts all along the seaside that sold local foods like churros and chestnuts at all hours of the day and night. The chestnut cart generated quite a bit of smoke at times but it didn't appear to deter people from wading through the smoke for a bag. The chestnuts are soft, meaty and slightly sweet but should be enjoyed with a beverage close at hand since they will make you thirsty. Surprisingly, the local Madeira wine isn't pushed as much as I had expected. Madeira is a very sweet wine that is best suited to drinking after a meal with dessert. We tried all the varieties from dry to full sweet and I found the full sweet to be much more flavourful than the dry in spite of my dislike of sweet wines. The sunshine was nice in Madeira but the food was nothing short of fabulous.

The geography of the island is beautiful and varied. The mountains rise dramatically into a treeless plateau which is a striking contrast to the eucalyptus forest and agricultural terraces you pass on the way up. The roads are narrow and winding with steep vertical drops. It isn't a paradise for those afraid of heights. :) One of the more popular attractions for tourists are the levada walks; a levada is one of the many channels built to collect and carry the water from the top of the island to lower parts of the island where it is used for agriculture. There are also a number of tours around the island that are safer than hiring a car yourself and driving around the crazy roads. I glimpsed death more than a few times on the 2 tours we took around the island. A snag with the tours is that all of the tour offices are fronts for time share scams and they seem to prey on people from the UK and the Nordic region in particular. If you get caught by one of these grifters just say that you're German since they don't appear to be recruited for these 'opportunities'. Book your tours ahead of time or find a reputable tour operator before you leave. Also, avoid the bridge from the hotel zone into Funchal as I dubbed it 'grifters bridge' where they assail you on every pass. If you want to spend your holiday in the same place for the next 29 years, just buy a house there as it's cheaper and it builds equity.

Overall, Madeira is a lovely place to visit for a relaxing and sunny holiday with plenty of good food and drink to enjoy. We had a good time but if we go back sometime, I think I'd like to stay in a small hotel outside of Funchal and try more of the levada hikes and other trips around the island.




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Tunisia was the destination for our winter holiday this year which conjured a mixture of the exotic and the 'Star Wars' familiar in the imagination. We departed late on Christmas Eve on a plane that had the most cramped seating I've ever had the displeasure of sitting in and still have the bruises on my kneecaps to prove it. I drank 3 glasses of wine and chewed my fingernails to the quick to tamp down the swirling homicidal urges directed at the woman in the seat in front of me who kept bouncing the back of the seat not realising that the bumps she was feeling in her back were my knees.

Fortunately, the flight was only four hours long. At passport control, I watched a rather intimidating customs official linger over every person and I began to be quite nervous about being a Yank. I gave the man my papers and tried to do my best 'customs casual' hoping that there wouldn't be a squad of armed guards if I looked too tense. While waving about the folded receipt for my residence permit renewal application that he found in the back of passport, "What's this?!", he asked. I explained what it was and he then went through each and every stamp in my passport. Twice. A few other questions and he tired of toying with me and let me pass. A metal detector and two more passport checks awaited us. Jarkko half-jokingly said to some other Finns on the elevator in the hotel that he wouldn't be surprised if there was a passport check at the room door. Welcome to Tunisia....

We strolled into Sousse on Christmas morning in search of coffee and a general idea of the place we had flown into the night before. Sousse is very much a product for the consumption of the tourists who come there to visit but even with that in mind there were no McDonald's, no Pizza Huts, no porn, no giant new shopping malls. There were a lot of Santa and New Year decorations which were clearly part of the tourism package but otherwise there were few signs of American/European culture having found its way into Tunisia which was a refreshing change of pace. Our 4-star hotel room even lacked a TV, telephone and anything else electronic. It was paradise. We found a cafe and, after nearly two years of strong Finnish coffee, the Tunisian coffee I ordered 3 consecutive cups of was so good as to be sublime. I wanted to order a thermos of it to go and I fantasized about a coffee pipeline from the mediterranean to Finland.

The Sousse medina was like running a gauntlet at a an American vacuum salesman convention in Las Vegas. Primed for an international clientele, i.e. tourists, the shopkeepers would step into your path and attempt to get you to look at their touristy crap at low prices just for you. "Päivä! Päivä! Mitä kuuluu?" and "Raha on loppu?" was their mantra to the pale folks like us dressed in black unless they noticed my camera and then it was either "Wie gehts?" or something in Dutch. I must admit that I admired their polyglot approach to pitching their wares even if I wasn't so fond of their aggressive sales tactics. Touristy towns always attract grifters. On our last day, we experienced what I called a 'Tunisian mugging' delivered to us by an old man who caught us off guard by speaking very good English and offering to show us the way to the great mosque in the medina. A few scary alleyways later, I shook his hand, thanked him and it dawned on me that we had been had in the least clever manner possible. We gave him a few coins and wandered back into familiar territory somewhat relieved.

On the first evening in Sousse, we had a few drinks in the hotel pub with a congenial bartender who would show his approval or disapproval of drink choices and keep the flow of little plates of finger foods coming all evening. At some point, between the second and third indigenous cocktail concoction, a local businessman started chatting us up and extolled the wonders the tax-free status businesses enjoy for five years in Tunisia. I asked, of course, "What happens after five years?", and he laughed a little too heartily and said, "You change the name of the business." Apparently, Tunisians also enjoy a Mexican-style privilege where they are allowed to hop over to Italy as a source of cheap agricultural labour. The train to Tunis the following day was a tour moving through olive groves and piles and piles of rubbish. Hundreds of tissue paper thin plastic bags in white, black, pink and other colours lay on open fields catching the wind which looked like some post-modern crop ready for harvest. After so many kilometers of rubble, rubbish and olives, a giant superdome of a football stadium rises up out of the plain just outside Tunis which instantly tells you where the national priority lies. The Lonely Planet guidebook mentions, "Westerners are often shocked by the depressing amount of litter in the countryside; it's not unusual to see rubbish being thrown from cars or buses.", and continues to mention that forests and animals are all but gone as well as widespread pollution from heavy industries and water scarcity place Tunisia pretty low on the environmental health index. I think anyone, not just westerners, would be appalled by the rubbish covering the countryside. I have a few German sayings that my mother used to quote frequently that all basically say that you don't have to be rich to avoid living like a pig. It makes you incredulous that empires fought over this once prosperous and lush land that is now a giant landfill.

The Tunis medina was much larger, much more interesting and filled with local goods instead of the tourist crap and the pushy salesmen that went with it. It is not, not for the claustrophobic or those who like personal space in a crowd. One local man got Jarkko's attention and pointed from his eye to Jarkko's jacket pocket and let him know he should be mindful of pickpockets in the very tight crush of people. It was just a brochure for Carthage, but it was very nice of him to try and help the obviously 'not from around here' shoppers. I bought only one thing in Tunisia and that was an authentic fez. The local costume is a brown wool cape with pointy hood [think Jawa] and red wool fez sans tassel. I wanted to buy one fez with a tassel for the perl pod mullah, but the man refused saying that those were only for tourists. Uh...Yah. :)

After 8 years of Latin and Roman history, I was really excited about seeing Carthage, but having seen downtown Tunis before riding the local train out to the ruins I was already lowering my expectations. Carthage is reportedly an upscale suburb but they must not expect anyone to visit it on their own as there are few signs to the scattered sites, no maps, and no visitors office for information. A pile of garbage was sitting in front of a European embassy where several cats were picking through it casually. I suppose that 'upscale' simply means better a garbage selection for the local stray cats. The view of Tunis and the sea from Byrsa Hill was beautiful, but after the museum the rest of the ruins were a bit too shabby for me to bear. We headed back into Tunis to get some lunch and catch the train to Sousse and, while I was waiting in line at the tabac, I watched with some fascination a calligrapher decorating cards for people who wanted something special for their New Year greetings.

After the depressing state we found Carthage and since we couldn't make the trip to Dougga we decided to head for El Jem which the guidebook spoke very highly of for its colosseum that was third largest in the Roman empire. Getting there was half the fun since, aside from the twice daily train, the only way to get there was via louage. A louage is a shared ride where you go to the station, state your destination and expect to ride on the roof of the minibus because the guy with the goats needs more room and goats are more difficult to tie down. Most of the roads are 2-lane and crowded with slowly moving trucks so the louage drivers are constantly leapfrogging through traffic. After a few terrifying moments where I could count the moles on a truck drivers' face, I decided to stare out at the passing scenery until we reached El Jem. :) Drivers chat on their mobile, change the radio station, make change for passengers and pass slower traffic all at the same time. It was a very cool experience, a bit unsettling, but the view of the colosseum from the outskirts of town was enough to know that even walking there would have been worth the trip. El Jem, formerly known as Thysdrus, built its wealth by being a transport hub in the olive trade and became the most opulent city within the Roman empire by 238 AD. The city revolted, assassinated the tax collector and proclaimed the African proconsul Gordian as Emperor when Emperor Maximus attempted to apply a heavy tax and relocate that wealth to Rome. Furious, Maximus punished the city and it faded from the memory of time and would only be remembered much later through some references made by Catholic priests.

The food was very good, especially the couscous and the olives. Tunisian Celtia beer is a light pilsner that is surprisingly good as are some of the local wines that we got bombed on one evening when it was stormy outside and didn't want to leave the restaurant. The appetizers are divine and full of fresh vegetables that I've not seen in years, which I ate in spite of the brief thought of the fields filled with rubbish contaminating the food supply. Hey, pollution tastes yummy with enough chili and onion served with it. :)

Tunisia is a very interesting place and I'd recommend it to anyone who is willing to deal with the inconveniences of a country that hasn't quite made it to the 21st century or, more precisely, it has many of the bad parts of modernization without most of the good ones. If we decide to return sometime, we'll avoid the tourist compound, hire a local guide and head for some of the more out of the way places. Don't leave home without a good guidebook as you won't get very much information from the tourist bureaus or a reasonable supply of pocket tissue packs since toilet seats, hand soap and toilet paper are rare commodities in public toilets. Next year, we're going to go somewhere hot, sunny and more modern for our winter holiday. :)


Grilled-cheese casino buys again


Grilled-cheese casino buys again 12/27/2004 10:51 AM
USA Today Dec 27 2004 1:52PM GMT

Nominee Is Grilled Over Program on
Pesticides


Nominee Is Grilled Over Program on
Pesticides
04/07/2005 02:56 AM
Stephen L. Johnson, President Bush's nominee to lead the Environmental Protection Agency, encountered unexpected turbulence at his Senate confirmation hearing.

'Victim' grilled on Jackson story


'Victim' grilled on Jackson story 04/05/2005 11:54 PM
A man who told a California court Michael Jackson molested him as a child admits he initially denied it.

Oracle v. DOJ: Government grilled in
closing


Oracle v. DOJ: Government grilled in
closing
07/20/2004 05:47 PM
special coverage The Justice Department starts an afteroon of closing arguments under a hail of tough questions.

Apple grilled again over advertising
claims


Apple grilled again over advertising
claims
06/11/2004 03:56 PM
The UK-based Advertising Standards Authority (ASA) is after Apple for false advertising claims. This is the second time Apple has been grilled by a UK advertising watchdog, and the third time complaints over the G5's presentation have arisen.

First Ever 3G Call in Tunisia


First Ever 3G Call in Tunisia 09/22/2004 04:42 AM
3G Sep 22 2004 8:11AM GMT

ZTE Touts Tunisia 3G


ZTE Touts Tunisia 3G 09/21/2004 02:34 PM
Unstrung.com Sep 21 2004 5:26PM GMT

Pictures from Madeira

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