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The best chocolate in Paris







The best chocolate in Paris

The best chocolate in Paris 12/19/2004 03:21 PM

From the Sunday New York Times comes this delicious article, In Paris, Boutiques and Cafes Where Chocolatiers Raise the Bar. Herewith, then, a guide to Paris for the chocolate aficionado. It is by no means exhaustive; the Paris phone book has several pages of listings for chocolatiers, but I think this represents a selection of those most worthy of your time. It contains a good listing of the top spots in the city. Closer to home, if your home happens to be New York City, is the Chocolate Bar. Oddly enough, I've never visited this place, even though it's so close to my house. When I first moved to NYC, I assumed I'd go here regularly, and yet it's never happened. Perhaps this afternoon I'll pay them a visit. All this reading and thinking about chocolate has made me hungry!




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I have seen God in a cup of chocolate


I have seen God in a cup of chocolate 06/05/2005 11:42 PM
Cory Doctorow: I don't hardly eat sugar, and I practically never eat dessert, but last night, Ben Hammersley took me to Hemingway's, a chocolate joint in Florence, Italy. I have never, ever tasted anything remotely as good as the things I tasted last night. I ate so much chocolate that I sweated it all night. It was completely worth it. Examine this picture of me closely: that expression on my face is chocolate ecstasy.

There were many delicious things on offer at Hemingway's, but two were so good as to be life-changing. The first was a flourless, eggless dark chocolate torte, which had the consistency of the inside of a truffle and was served slightly chilled. Every mouthful of this made me feel like something important in my mouth was bursting. There were medieval princes who spent lifetimes searching for experiences that did this sort of thing to your sensory apparatus. Whatever they found was nothing so good as this.

But the very best was their Mexican-style drinking chocolate, called the Montezuma, a viscous drink made with very bitter chocolate, seasoned with chillies, aged Cuban rum (I don't drink, either, but I had two of these), and cinnamon and nutmeg. The longer I held sips of Montezuma in my mouth, the more flavors and subtleties I discovered. The chillies suffused my sinuses and the rum made my whole abdomen glow gently, like banked coals. This was, without a doubt, the best thing I ever tasted, and possibly the best sensation I've ever experienced. I've seen people in religious ecstasy. That's what this felt like.

Afterwards, I fell asleep for half an hour on the sofa in Hemingway's, collapsed on one of my dining companions. My brain was overwhelmed with the tastes, and it had to shut my body off so that it could process the input. I have a feeling that from now on, whenever a little money finds its way into my pocket, the temptation to blow it on a plane ticket to Florence (cheap from London, as these things go) and have a cup of Hemingway's Montezuma is going to be nigh-irresistible. I no longer feel the need to blow my cash on computers or gadgets -- just hook an IV of this thing straight into my arm and leave me to die by chocolate. Link

chocolate chocolate chocolate


chocolate chocolate chocolate 03/17/2005 03:20 AM
Chocolate is so damn good I keep seeing boutique chocolate companies popping up everywhere (like this one: www.delicioustruffles.com). And now Pete of Pete's Wicked Ale has started one (www.cocoapetes.com) Which begs the question is chocolate the next beer? Is America about to be deluged with extraordinary chocolates like we've been hit with microbrews? And why has it taken so damn long?

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Death by Chocolate 06/23/2004 12:21 PM
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Cake with your Chocolate


Cake with your Chocolate 03/14/2005 06:01 PM

Mmmm....chocolate

« Best chocolate cake ever.... »

I have a puppy who doesn't often let me relax on the couch in the evening but somehow sleeps contentedly on the kitchen floor if I am baking something, so I have been baking a bit more than usual lately. I was looking for a cooking pan one evening and rediscovered the gothic cathedral Bundt pan I've had for a few years that I'd forgotten about and thought about making a Bundt cake that would appeal to the Finnish dessert palate. I figured I could make the cake for some friends we were having over but I would subject my coworkers to a test cake to see if they liked it as much as I guessed they might. It's funny how so many products in Finland claim 'Authentic American Taste' but how few of them are anywhere near the actual taste and, when given something that really does taste like it does back home, how few Finns really enjoy it. I have learned through trial and error that it is a rare American dessert that appeals to the Finnish palate. The cake is very chocolatey, not overly sweet and the whipped cream and raspberries are a near constant feature in Finnish desserts.

As a disclaimer, I'm not all that crazy about chocolate cakes, but if I had tasted the batter before I poured it all into the pan and shoved it into the oven, I could have easily decided to eat the entire bowl of batter myself instead of having only the spatula to lick the remainder from. I think a couple of people at work went back for a second piece so it's safe to say that it was well received. I made the first cake with kermaviili because I didn't think that Finland really had a true sour cream and kermaviili was reasonably close to the mark. The second cake I made with smetana, which I was told was more like sour cream than kermaviili. Kermaviili is about 10% fat, smetana is about 47% fat and American sour cream is somewhere around 21% fat. Of the two cakes, the kermaviili cake was far better because it was more moist and less rich than the smetana cake. I think this is one of the few occasions where less fat is better than more.

Don't overdo the mixing as it will introduce too much air into the batter and cause the cake to rise more than it should. I used my standing mixer for the first cake and noticed that I really didn't need it save for the creaming of the butter and sugar. The cake release should be used on any pan you use, even if it is the most stick-free teflon on the market. Wrap cake in foil or plastic wrap after cooling for an hour or two if you don't plan to eat it right away to help keep the cake moist.

The Best Chocolate Bundt Cake

Serves: 12 to 14
Special equipment: Bundt or tube pan
Time: about 90 minutes
Source: Cook's Illustrated

Cake Release

  • 1 tablespoon butter, melted
  • 1 tablespoon cocoa

Cake

  • 3/4 cup (2.25 oz) or 1,75dl cocoa, natural (not Dutch-processed)
  • 6 oz or 170g bittersweet chocolate (2 100g bars of Fazer baking chocolate which leaves a few bits for eating.)
  • 1 teaspoon instant espresso powder (optional)
  • 3/4 or 1.75dl cup water (boiling)
  • 1 cup (8.75 oz) or 2,5dl sour cream (kermaviili not smetana if in Finland), room temperature
  • 1.75 cups or 4,25dl unbleached all-purpose flour 
  • 1 teaspoon table salt
  • 1 teaspoon baking soda 
  • 12 tablespoons(1.5 sticks) or 170g unsalted butter, room temperature
  • 2 cups (14 oz) or 4,75dl light brown sugar 
  • 1 tablespoon vanilla extract 
  • 5 large eggs, room temperature
  • confectioners' sugar for dusting

FOR THE PAN:

  1. Stir together butter and cocoa in small bowl until paste forms; using a pastry brush, coat all interior surfaces of standard 12-cup Bundt pan. (If mixture becomes too thick to brush on, microwave it for 10 to 20 seconds, or until warm and softened.)
  2. Adjust oven rack to lower-middle position; heat oven to 350F/175C degrees.

FOR THE CAKE:

  1. Combine cocoa, chocolate, and espresso powder (if using) in medium heatproof bowl; pour boiling water over and whisk until smooth. Cool to room temperature; then whisk in sour cream.
  2. Whisk flour, salt, and baking soda in second bowl to combine.
  3. In standing mixer fitted with flat beater, beat butter, sugar, and vanilla on medium-high speed until pale and fluffy, about 3 minutes.
  4. Reduce speed to medium and add eggs one at a time, mixing about 30 seconds after each addition and scraping down bowl with rubber spatula after first 2 additions.
  5. Reduce to medium-low speed (batter may appear separated); add about one third of flour mixture and half of chocolate/sour cream mixture and mix until just incorporated, about 20 seconds.
  6. Scrape bowl and repeat using half of remaining flour mixture and all of remaining chocolate mixture; add remaining flour mixture and beat until just incorporated, about 10 seconds.
  7. Scrape bowl and mix on medium-low until batter is thoroughly combined, about 30 seconds.
  8. Pour batter into prepared Bundt pan, being careful not to pour batter on sides of pan.
  9. Bake until wooden skewer inserted into center comes out with few crumbs attached, 45 to 50 minutes.
  10. Cool in pan 10 minutes, then invert cake onto parchment-lined wire rack; cool to room temperature, about 3 hours.
  11. Dust with confectioners' sugar, transfer to serving platter, and cut into wedges; serve with Tangy Whipped Cream and raspberries, if desired.

Tangy Whipped Cream

  • 1 cup or 2,50dl heavy cream (cold)
  • 1/4 cup or ~.60dl sour cream 
  • 1/4 cup or ~.60dl packed light brown sugar 
  • 1/8 teaspoon vanilla extract 

With electric mixer, beat all ingredients, gradually increasing speed from low to high, until cream forms soft peaks, 1.5 to 2 minutes.

Lightly Sweetened Raspberries

  • 3 cups or 7dl fresh raspberries gently rinsed and dried
  • 1 - 2 tablespoons granulated sugar 

Gently toss raspberries with sugar, then let stand until berries have released some juice and sugar has dissolved, about 15 minutes.


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Chocolate ingredient fights cancer 04/15/2005 09:01 PM
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“There are all kinds of chemicals in the food we eat that potentially have effects on cancer cells, and a natural compound in chocolate may be one,” said the lead author, Robert B. Dickson, Ph.D., professor of oncology. “We need to slowly develop evidence about the selectivity of these compounds to cancer, learn how they work, and sort out any issues of toxicity.”

Chocolate, like many other foods, is the source of many possible anti-cancer compounds, but Dickson stresses that this research, which is part of a series of studies conducted at Georgetown on the chocolate-cancer connection, does not mean that people who eat chocolate will either reduce their cancer risks or treat a current case.
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Green and Black's 72% cocoa organic chocolate seems to be the stuff. Stick it in the microwave, melt it, and pour it into the funnel. Rather than trying to be scientific about this we've taken the brute force plan and simply melted as many different types of chocolate as we could. We got lucky however, and hit on Green and Black's pretty quickly. The really nice thing about this particular consumable seems to be that it retains heat for a long time, and still prints a similar sized blob as it cools.

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